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Tuesday October 7 2008 06:30:00 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 4 min
Surfboard ridden: Longboard/Fish
Weather and water temp: 72F/70F
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
"Long distance information
give me Memphis Tennessee.
Help me, information,
get in touch with my Marie."
Hurricane Marie (that is) hovered off Mexico's Pacific coast Saturday, barely moving on its northwestern path. Originally a tropical storm off the Mexican resort city of Acapulco it strengthen into a hurricane Sunday, according to the National Hurricane Center in Miami. Marie, the sixth hurricane of the eastern Pacific season was located about 200 miles (325 kilometers) south of Acapulco and was expected to remain off the coast as it drifts west. Marie was centered 845 miles (1,365 kilometers) southwest of the southern tip of the Baja California Peninsula. It was moving north at 2 mph (4 kph) and was forecast to turn west and head farther away from land.
Sunday morning 6:30 AM the 'Ray Bay Surf Club' was in the river parking lot in full force: River Bob (the professor) Tony & Rick, Surfer Tom, Uncle Jay, Gary, Marcus, Mike (Pinkie) the fisherman, myself (Bruce) and not to forget the gorgeous Andrea (named after the famous California San Andreas Fault, as she said "It's always my fault".)
Thank's to Marie, Ray Bay was going off! Chest to shoulder high with the occasional head high peak. All the way from Barracuda's by the north wall, across middles, to Crabs by the south jetty. As I paddled out on my 9'2" performance longboard, Surfer Tom came sliding across a nice one, the curl snapping across his shoulders. Surfed middles and moved over to Cuda's as the tide came in. Caught a couple of face high left hand 'bombs' into the breakwall, then back over to Crabs for almost a four hour session ... then had to go to work at noon!
Back out this morning (monday) with Stuart (Bruce 11) for another four hours, this time riding my 7'2" SuperFish. Not quite as big but really clean and fun! Pinkie got another one of his trademark head-dips in the curl, Bruce took off his usual way, deep, deep, deep and pumped his way all the way across. Uncle Jay got a nice cheater five on his 4" thick hand made special, the "Rubber Ducky". Gary watched me take off deep, on a nice shoulder high peak with a young kid, faked left, lost him, slid my back foot onto the tail and snapped it up and down hard, all the way across Crabs. Gary said "Did you say you were sorry ... yeah sorry but I got the wave!"
Don't know if I can make it out tomorrow, I'm worn out, beat up and the inside of my knees were bleeding (ouch) ... Bruce had real bad nipple rash!
9'2" Jean-Luc 2+1 Longboard: Ouch:
7'2" Jean-Luc SuperFish:
Created: Tuesday October 7 2008 05:04:21 AM
Modified: Wednesday October 8 2008 01:08:28 AM