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Sunday September 14 2008 11:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: Too many to count
Length of the surf session: 480 min
Surfboard ridden: 8'4
Weather and water temp: 63F
Looked deceiving at first. Looked really choppy, the wave periods were probably 4 seconds.
But when I went in, they were fairly powerful for their size.
When low-tide went to high-tide, the breaks were long and good. When high went to low, the waves got shallower towards the shore.
Called my friend Wes halfway through the day, and we surfed to the evening.
Careful on the right towards the mouth of the river. Very shallow beach with a couple rocks.
Gulls started showing up in the middle of the afternoon and swarming the middle of the ocean. Freaked me out because of sharks, but Wes assured me that it's probably just baitfish.
Created: Thursday September 18 2008 04:15:05 PM
Modified: Thursday September 18 2008 04:15:39 PM