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Thursday September 18 2008 06:30:00 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 150 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 70F/68F
I see we have jumped a hundred years forward? Anyway good swell all this week! The river was chest to shoulder high + this morning, 6:30AM-9:30AM. Clean, glassy conditions with some nice peaks over by the north wall at Baracudas. Take off deep, run out in front of the wave, then pull a hard bottom turn followed by a backhand snap off the lip, then work the shoulder all the way across Middles to the south wall at Crabs.
Wednesday: Wave of the day: River Bob took off deep on a shoulder high peak, got a cover up and a nice wall all the way across to Crabs.
Thursday: Wave's of the day: Fisherman Mike's head dip deep inside the curl. My steep head high peak, hard, deep, backand bottom turn, smack the lip, line up the bowl, hard off the bottom and smack the lip again, blast out on to the shoulder with the wave breaking on my shoulder, hard cut back ... and fell off ... oh well!
Friday my nose ride across Crabs: (Photo by Tom)
Saturday: Clean conditions with fast glassy walls from Middles to Crabs. Nose ride on a small snapper all the way across Crabs and then stepped right on a Stingray's back ... good luck it did not wack me!
Saturday ... almost the same shot ... notice the hair cut! (Photo by Tom)
Created: Wednesday September 17 2008 09:57:20 PM
Modified: Monday September 22 2008 06:34:37 AM