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Thursday September 4 2008 12:49:14 AM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 3.5 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 70F/70F
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Finally some good waves! Dawn patrol "Ray Bay" San Gabriel Rivermouth, Los Alamitos Bay, Seal Beach. Perfect conditions, after week's of onshore, South 'Catalina Eddy' wind and knee high crumble. Early morning negative, building to a five foot plus late morning high tide and smooth glassy conditions. A mix of fading NW windswelll and building S/SSE groundswell from Chile with bigger southern hemi, coming up from Pitcairn, peaking Thursday plus new swell from New Zealand still in the forecast!
The river was chest to shoulder high with occasional bigger sets on the the tide push. At low tide we had 'point break' lines coming in from the 'Middle's' across 'Crabs'. A little walled with sections but pick the right wave and fun, fun, fun. As the tide came in the break moved over to the north wall at 'Baracuda's' and got bigger and better!
Wave of the morning: Mark Burke's rail grabbing, back-door peak, tube.
For about an hour it was going off! Head high peaks ... long rights across the bowl or snappy short left-handers. Got worked on a big left peak. Took off deep in the bowl, came up and out off the bottom as the lip peeled over, then the backwash and refraction off the breakwater pushed the wave back into itself! It jumped up to a couple of feet overhead and the wall vanished into a square box! I started free falling down the sheer face, then it concussed, boom, on back of my board (thought it was going to break in half). Just swatted my board like a bug and blew me up ... I had my wetsuit top pulled down to my waist and I finished up nose down, with my wetsuit around my knee's and my bare butt sticking up in the soup!
Wednesday morning update:
This morning we had plenty of size from building SE/SW southern hemi swells but no NW to cross it up, so pretty walled out. If you picked the right wave it was "Speed Racer" all the way!
The fog was a big problem, it rolled in so thick, at one point you could barely see the end of your board! I was out at Cuda's by the north wall when visibility vanished. Got totally disorientated, drifted over to the middle of the river mouth and started paddling the wrong way, out to sea! If I had come across another lone surfer with a better sense of direction, I would have finished up in the shipping lanes!
After that nasty shake-up, paddled inside, caught a set wave across and stayed in the pack at Crab's by the south breakwall! Fog never did lift while I was out there, even past 9 AM. You still could not see the breakwall, as I quickly found out. Hooked up on a nice shoulder high screamer across the inside sandbar on my 7'2" Super Fish. Steep take off, couple of quick pumps across the walll and it started to tube, crouched down and grabbed the outside rail ... just grinding; then I saw a dark shape rushing at me, holy shit ... the rocks ... BAIL OUT!
Wave of the morning: Surfer Tom's high line, high speed, wall.
Thursday Morning update:
Clean, clean, clean but smaller and really crowded! Some nice nose ride's across the inside sandbar by Crab's. Photo thanx to Tom.
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Created: Wednesday September 3 2008 01:38:13 AM
Modified: Monday September 8 2008 07:04:30 PM