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Session: Fast Swell
Written by yann 
Tuesday August 19 2008 11:00:00 AM
Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)
Session's Rate: 
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Strong
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 1:00 hours
Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty
Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy
Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out
Description:
I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.
I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.
the beginning of the session: smalle waves
But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:
the right started to work
But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!
It broke outside tripods.
As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.
Buddies:
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:40:20 AM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:41:15 AM
Hits: 922
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