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Session: Fast Swell

Written by yann show yann profile

Tuesday August 19 2008 11:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Strong

Nb waves ridden: 10

Length of the surf session: 1:00 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Mushy
- Powerful
- Hollow
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- Bowl
- Close out

Description:

I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.

I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.

0808japan015 the beginning of the session: smalle waves

But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:

0808japan016 the right started to work

But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!

0808japan017 It broke outside tripods.

As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.

Buddies:

Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:40:20 AM

Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:41:15 AM

Hits: 1200

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