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Tuesday August 19 2008 11:00:00 AM
Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)
Nb waves ridden: 10
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty
Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C
I knew the swell was coming.But at 9am, it was completely flat. And I have to surf before 12 because we will go for a trip.
I decided to come back at 10h30. Waves were 50cm... I wait half an hour and waves increase until 70cm. I jumped into the water just to surf something.
But after 20mn, swell increased and I get fun 1,20m waves:
But the swell continued to increased until 1,50 solid!
As I was alone and the outside current was strong, I decided to stop.
Created: Thursday August 21 2008 09:40:20 AM
Modified: Thursday August 21 2008 09:41:15 AM