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Friday August 15 2008 07:15:00 AM
Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)
Nb waves ridden: 12
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty
Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C
I have waited a long for this session...10 years...It 's the first time I surfed here. I wake up early and decided to have a look. I didn't expect any waves. When I arrived, it was surfable: 1m waves were rolling along the beach.
Fun waves: it's a shorebreak which is not a close out ! I had to rediscover the board I got: a thruster I habe brought in Japan. Waves were short and hollow.I surfed with 6 other japaneses who were very surprised to see me surfing here.
At the end: not my best session and my best surf but I was really happy to surf here.
Created: Friday August 15 2008 06:44:31 AM
Modified: Friday August 15 2008 06:52:36 AM