Wannasurfers

Home

Session: sloppy and fun

Written by yann

Friday August 15 2008 07:15:00 AM

Surf spot: Ataka, Japan

Surf Trip: West Japan, summer 2008 ( 04 August 2008 - 24 August 2008)

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 12

Length of the surf session: 1:30 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'2'' Aiko, rusty

Weather and water temp: Air: stormy, hot Water: 26°C

Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft

Waves Quality:
- Fun
- Ledgey

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks

Description:

I have waited a long for this session...10 years...It 's the first time I surfed here. I wake up early and decided to have a look. I didn't expect any waves. When I arrived, it was surfable: 1m waves were rolling along the beach.

Fun waves: it's a shorebreak which is not a close out ! I had to rediscover the board I got: a thruster I habe brought in Japan. Waves were short and hollow.I surfed with 6 other japaneses who were very surprised to see me surfing here.

At the end: not my best session and my best surf but I was really happy to surf here.