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Tuesday July 29 2008 11:02:36 PM
Surf Trip: Hot August nights ... ( 17 August 2007 - 17 August 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: lots
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 72F/70F
Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft
Hey, Hey, don't wake up Mr. Ray!
Water temps are starting to warm up, aided by the two power stations up river pumping out hot water as residents turn on their air-conditioners. The summer Stingray breeding season is in full swing and the little buggers are all over the bottom of the San Gabriel river mouth in Seal Beach's "Ray Bay " the largest concentration in SOCAL!
Have been wacked three times, (first time is the worst, but they all hurt BAD). First time the barb went in the arch of my naked foot a full three inches.
Aaaaaaaaaaagh! Were talking emergency center!
Second time hot hit in the ankle paddling out, through a booty. Last time was not as bad went through the bottom of the booty, only had to sit in the bucket half an hour.
Anyway some clean little waves this morning, not too much rip current and only a few of us out with an occasional big set breaking in the center bowl. Drew a little blood from my buddy ... he was caught inside as I was barreling down the line, up high and on the nose ... thought I had made it past him when my nose pearled and my board flew back and clipped his cheek. Last week he got a black eye when he smacked his board with his head coming off a re-entry, poor guy his wife is a real witch and keeps him on a short leash.
Surf trip planned for Wednesday, 4 AM drive to Secos Point, just past Malibu, forecast is 3-5 feet with occasional overhead sets, then on up the coast to the Dallas Cowboys training camp in Oxnard to watch the 9 AM -11 AM practice. Don't worry will say Gidday to the cheerleaders for ya all!
Update read: Secos and Jessica Simpson
Went again out this morning in the river. From 6:30 AM to 8 AM it was going off! Chest to shoulder with overhead sets ... long green walls from the center peak all the way (almost 100 yards) across Crabs, before the south wind came up, the tide came in and half of Orange County came out!
Riding my 9'2" Jean-Luc Roberts, scored some nice clean walls, take off in the suck up, duck through the lip across the bowl, work the lip backside, up and down, hold the high line as the wave hits the inside sand bar ... then tip time!
Created: Monday July 28 2008 11:43:12 PM
Modified: Thursday July 31 2008 09:29:01 PM