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Wednesday January 10 2007 09:49:08 PM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 3 hours
Surfboard ridden: Longboard
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
Lies Suffock Park and Broken Heads. The first time I saw Suffock Park it was little more than a remote beach campground surrounded by scrub at the end of a sandy track off a secondary road. We had arrived the night before in a blue and white VW bus with the side windows covered by checkered table cloth curtains and a mattress on the floor. Dawn came and crawling out of our sleeping bags rubbing out eyes we walked around the point and checked out Broken Heads. Broken Heads is just that ... broken headlands ... cliffs falling into the sea with offshore rock islands that looked like they once belonged to the mainland. It was a hot dry day at the end of summer probably 85F degrees at sunup and a light breeze coming from the west blowing from the desert regions of the outback and bringing with it hundred of tiny flies that flew in your eyes up your nose and into your ears looking for moisture.
The wind was slightly cross shore but the cliffs protected the bay between the bookend rocky outcrops. The ocean was oily glass and sets from shoulder to head high broke in two peaks, one out by the furthest rocks and one inside the bay in front of the cliffs similar to Zeros just north of Malibu in California. Quick breakfast of Kellogg’s corflakes with banana (now I cannot eat before I go out period) someone else had melted chocolate frogs washed down by a warm beer and a raw egg (true OZ breakfast of champions).
As we knee paddled out the sun burning on our backs the wax on our boards was already soft by the time we made it to the line up. There were only a half dozen of us out there sliding down the fat peaks and climbing and dropping the glass walls. The bigger clean sets were a little inconstant so as we sat in the line up the water dried on our baking shoulders leaving salt crystals and the flies found us all the way out to sea ... not only did you had to dive off your board to cool down and get rid of the flies you had also to turn your board upside down to stop the wax melting right off!
By midmorning it must have been 90F degrees with 80F water. We had no leashes in this era so were surfing the far point as there is no beach whatsoever just rocks more rocks and undercut cliffs so if you lost your board it was history. The inside peak was better but just too risky ... one of our friends Mr. Jitters (from his Terry Fitsgerald style) caught a beauty inside but didn’t make it ... board was dinged from top to bottom but didn’t break ... two layers of 10oz cloth was common. As a footnote this area is now considered a not so “secret spot” and is frequented by surfers including Nat Young seeking less crowded conditions.
Created: Wednesday January 10 2007 09:51:10 PM
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:20:51 PM