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Tuesday July 22 2008 10:31:23 PM
Surf Trip: Big Wednesday ( 05 December 2007 - 05 December 2007)
Nb waves ridden: Tons
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9'2
Weather and water temp: 72F/65F
A mix of big southern hemi S ground swell with just a trace of fading NW wind swell and a slight, but building SSE swell from Hurricane Fausto! Super clean conditions for the dawn patrol, with just a light offshore wind and glassy peaks, after a weekend of lumpy, bumpy, 'June Gloom' conditions from the dreaded 'Catalina Eddy'.
Inconsistent, chest to head high with an occasional monster set, a little walled out, but pick the right wave and your really flying down the line, a pumping and a thumping!
Most amazing thing was there were only four of us (with the clean conditions the hordes must have gone to Bolsa Chica) lined up in the suck-up off the sea wall, of course you still had to negotiate the slalom course of lid heads and shortboarders sitting on the inside sandbar. (I hate people who just sit there, or paddle for the shoulder, right into your sights, as you come screaming out of the bowl.)
Caught a ton of waves! Took off on a clean, smaller pier bowl, faded into the peak, quick top turn and a nice cheater five all the way across the inside sandbar. Most of the overhead sets were walled, so it was hard off the bottom and out, duck under the lip, then pump, pump, pump and out ... over the top before you got thumped!
Saw the end of the pier light up with a big set, so scratched hard out to sea, let the first three go, then a real monster came rolling in ... took off late, just as the suck up kicked in, went near vert and free fell down the face, seemed to take forever - I was praying hard the nose didn't pearl) made the drop, hit the bottom and eased into a big carved turn onto the green ... what a rush ... that was about it, had to bail over the top before it closed out!
Well boys and girls ... that's it: time for a breakfast burrito, couple of Advill (aching all over) and a good nap ... all beat up!
Update: Ruby Tuesday
Must have caught 30 waves yesterday ate brecky, popped a couple of pain pills and passed out for 2 hours!
Alarm woke me up this morning at the usual 5:20 AM feeling very achy breaky but put in another 3 hours session. Not quite as big or clean as yesterday's classic waves but still outstanding!
Created: Monday July 21 2008 11:34:04 PM
Modified: Tuesday July 22 2008 09:52:53 PM