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Monday June 30 2008 07:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 6-8
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 9' 0"
Weather and water temp: 25c / 27c
I drove from Perkins to the pier and the best I could find was an almost ankle to knee swell at the Officers club. The crowd was down to just a hanfull of hopefull soels who's patiance would pay off with a rare rouge set of knee to chest. With two hours dedicated to nothing better (as if there was ever anything better) to do than sit in the line up I was able to drop into two such rare sets. The first provided an outstanding chest high break that left me dragging my fingure tips accross the face as I made a long sweeping bottom turn beore drifting back up the face to trim in for a 5 second nose ride and a couple of S turns before getting closed out. The second gave me my last wave of the day, this just above waist wave gave me a nice long nose ride a couple quick S turns to a floater and then as it closed out a great front ride all the way to the shore where I stepped off just before my skeg touched the beach. Days like today prove once again it doesn't need to be epic to have a great session!
Created: Monday June 30 2008 09:12:42 PM
Modified: Monday June 30 2008 09:12:42 PM