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Tuesday January 9 2007 08:47:57 PM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Nb waves ridden: Several
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 7'6
Fins: Single 6
One warm winter morning I paddled out at Kirra Point. It was mid week and not too crowded ... surf was chest to overhead and breaking cleanly on the rock bottom out on the point before they built the groin.
As the swell wrapped around inside it began to section and suck up as it hit the foot or so of water over the inside sand bar in front of the rocks. Kirra is an extremely fast wave that speed up faster and faster as it wraps and boomerangs - you need sky rockets up your arse to make it all the way!
Was picking the smaller sets that lined up outside shooting down the line and kicking out as they hit the inside section to avoid getting caught in the rip that sucks you north at Kirra when ever its gets any size.
Ready to go in I paddled out and waited for a final big set ... here it came ... took off ... hit the bottom ... turned fast ... trimmed and crouched low as the lip came over my head ... too late to kick out ... I realized I was committed! Grabbed the rail staring at the nose of my board and the discolored water being sucked up from the sand bar ... oh my god I hope I don’t hit a rock or I’m a goner! Normally when you get a cover up or tube its short and sweet, you can see the shoulder in front of you and its just a matter of making it or not.
On this wave I was already in the tube when a big section just closed right over me ... I was in the tube but there was no daylight just green sandy water. I guess the so called “fight or flight” survival reflex must have kicked in, time slowed down to a crawl, I stopped breathing running on pure adrenaline, the roar of the wave became silent, my eyes focused into tunnel vision, I could even feel the sticky wax on my board as I shot like a shell down the barrel of a cannon.
It seem to go on and on forever, my body making minute adjustments on auto pilot to keep the board on track suddenly I saw a small patch of light ... was I going to make it ... yes the hole opened up to a green shoulder but just for an instant ... then I saw another big section rearing up ... I power turned from the bottom at full speed out and over the top ... exhausted!
Created: Tuesday January 9 2007 08:52:04 PM
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:21:09 PM