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Friday August 3 2007 12:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: About 20
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: Hunter RNF 5 10''
Weather and water temp: Warm
This covers 2 days, hence why the details contradict themselves.
This happened last August where for a couple of days there was a pretty big storm lingering on the SW coast, one day the waves were totally maxing out and despite the lifeguards effort to keep surfers out there were a few that managed to pursaide them to let us out, despite the big conditions the few surfers that made it to the one working section were the longboarders, all the short boarders were just being nocked about to much and with a strong rip it was near to impossible. On my way out I was almost reaching safety until some swine dropped in out of nowhere, and when I say dropped in I dont mean on feet, I mean being thrown from the lip on a close-out, his board smashed me square on my head, which ruled me out of a days surf. After a dizzy paddle back, I watched to for the rest of the day, later noticing that the guy who hit me was being dragged out by the Lifeguards with blood pouring down his face.
The next day could not have been a more opposite, totally flat, so me and my friend decided to just go for a swim around the rocks on the townside of the beach, and leave our boards and wettys in the car. Which, was driven off by another friend to go to St Ives for the day. As soon as we had realised this had happened, guess what, 3 to 4 foot sets come rolling in. After a while of discussion we decided we would cut our losses and go body surfing in just boxers. FREEZING cold but what a good time we had, if only we had our boards, there wasnt a sole in sight!
Created: Tuesday June 3 2008 01:15:27 PM
Modified: Tuesday June 3 2008 01:15:27 PM