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Saturday May 10 2008 05:15:00 AM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 15ish
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9' 0"
Weather and water temp: chilly
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
Scott and I hit up in-betweens this week for the Saturday Dawn Patrol, since we had so much fun last week in that area. We hit the water by 0530 and were the only two out for the first thirty minutes. We each caught a good four or five waves that were in the waist high range when we got the bright idea to hit Kiasers that was breaking a little bigger. We padled over and each caught two or three waves with only one other guy in the water before the waves dropped, people showed up, and I got dragged across the low tide reef. We sat there for a good thirty minutes before the next set came in and we had to fight eight others for the small waves breaking late. We decided to call it and paddle in via in-betweens. Much to our amazment when we hit the break there were clean knee high waves and only one other surfer! We spent another hour nose ridding, smacking lips on cut backs, and just having some plain old fun. All in all for being windy, choppy, and cold by Hawaii standards (and getting my leg sliced up by coral) it was a great morning to watch the sun rise over Diamond head and Waikiki from the line up.
Created: Saturday May 10 2008 07:51:20 PM
Modified: Saturday May 10 2008 07:51:20 PM