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Tuesday March 25 2008 05:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 8
Length of the surf session: 120 min
Surfboard ridden: 9
Weather and water temp: 77 F air, 70 F water
Things started out pretty normally. Got there around 5pm. The sun was strong and the waves were large (5-8 foot). There were about 8 people out on the southern break, but they were a bit spread out.
The tide was decently high. The waves were breaking hard on the beach and cement walls. I did some stretching and headed in. My first wave wasn't too bad, I got up on my feet and tried to turn to the right (frontside) but sort of lost the wave. After that I went through a rough series of wipe outs where I was trying to get my feet and body weight positioned correctly on the board for doing a frontside turn and surfing to the right. This included some seriously thrashing face plants and falls onto my back right into the breaking waves.
The waves were quite large, the biggest I've been successful in on a longboard to this point. But I seemed to be catching them just in the right spot and avoided getting slammed by the large sets (6-9 waves in a row). Most of the time I was able to turn to the right slightly, so while it wasn't anything great, it at least got me a little closer to escaping the impact zone before the next wave hit.
Then as twilight set in and the sunset ended, I caught a good wave. I was able to do a frontside turn and keep on the wave, then follow it up by straightening out a little before the wave backed off. It was about a 10s ride, nothing great, but one of the best of the day. I thought about calling it a night and heading in. I was already close to the shore and it would be a long paddle back out.
I decided to push my luck and paddled all the way back out. I rested a minute, then paddled for a wave. Just before I caught it, someone else got it and I had to give way. This left me a good ways back in towards the shore. I had to quickly paddle back out if I was going to catch a wave before all the twilight was gone.
I setup for a wave thinking that it would be the last of the night. I caught it and jumped to my feet in good position. I quickly did a frontside turn (to the right). Then I realized that the wave was dying off, so I did a cutback to the left and rode the wave back that way until I get near the whitewater. I couldn't believe that I hadn't fallen yet (15s). I tried to do another cutback and head to the right again, but my board just wouldn't turn. I managed to straighten out but I wasn't going to the right. So I had the thought (finally) to turn my hips, so I swiveled my hips and head out towards the open ocean. It was kind of crazy because I couldn't see where I was going at all. But it worked! A few seconds later I was still on the wave and heading to the right. I rode it to the right a bit more and then straightened out some. I noticed that I was getting in close to some shallow water and rocks, so I dropped down onto the board on my chest. Then I grabbed the front of the board and I rode it the rest of the way (40m) back into the shore!
I couldn't believe it! I had stayed up the whole way, in big waves, and I had done turns and cutbacks that I'd never been able to do well before! The whole ride was about 100m and a good 25s standing and another 15s on my stomach.
Best day of surfing in my life! Unfortunately this was my last day of surfing this summer. But what a way to end it! I can't wait to get back to the beach next summer and do this again! Hopefully I can ditch this longboard and get a shortboard next summer too!
Created: Wednesday March 26 2008 04:29:17 PM
Modified: Monday March 31 2008 11:49:44 PM