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Monday March 24 2008 06:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 4
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 77 F air, 72 F water
Got the car out of the shop and raced down to San Bartolo to get in a little surfing. Made it by 6pm before the sunset. Had to get out just before 7pm though as twilight is ending much earlier now.
Went out to the southern break and tried to catch the rights. First wave I was up and riding and almost turned to the right (still need a lot of practice on that). After that it seemed like my wax job got the best of me. I didn't wax the board because I was in a hurry and figured it was good enough. The rest of the night I mostly ended up slipping and falling off due to lack of grip (and a little exhaustion).
I was going for most every wave I could because I knew I had limited time. I certainly got plenty of exercise as I was huffing and puffing most of the session. After I got really tired, there was no time to rest, so I just kept catching waves... but then wiping out. I must have caught at least 10 waves where I wiped out in only 5s or so.
Not sure if it's the surf booties or what, but something was really killing the side of my left pinky the whole session. Not sure if they were rubbing on a bug bite or if they were the cause of it.
Water wasn't too crowded, only about 6-8 people and there were more than enough waves.
Created: Tuesday March 25 2008 01:34:44 PM
Modified: Tuesday March 25 2008 01:34:44 PM