|Find the best surf spots||
Monday March 17 2008 04:30:00 PM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Established
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 1.5 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 76 F Air, 72 F Water
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
- One peak
I got down there after work for a good surf session. I was expecting a fairly small mid-week crowd. I was very surprised when I arrived to find about 10-15 people getting out of the water and by the time I paddled out there were still a good 20+ people in the southern break and a good 10-15 people in the middle break. I don't go on Sundays due to the crowding, but this seemed just like a Sunday.
I'm not sure if it was due to Holy Week starting or what. The gov't holidays don't start until Thursday.
Anyhow, the onshore wind was pretty solid and there was a ton of chop in the water. The waves were good size, about the max I can really make any progress on. I was trying to get some practice with turning. I did get my tip to come back up out of the water and almost get it to turn, but normally I would wipe out shortly there after. Generally I was getting too far out ahead of the wave before I could do the turn move. So by the time I was turned, the wave was just catching back up with me and knocking me over.
Looks like I need to work more on catching the wave before it breaks and then standing up right as I catch it, rather than a couple seconds after I make 'sure' that I've caught it. This should let me get the turn going while still on the wave face.
I had limited time to be in the water and was constantly dodging other surfers. There were almost non-stop waves, so most everyone got their share. But there was a lot of giving way that was needed by everyone, along with a lot of dodging people who were riding the wave (and thus getting yourself thrashed). I wish summer wasn't over so that I could keep advancing my skills enough to ride a shortboard and get out of beginner areas.
Created: Thursday March 20 2008 08:09:49 PM
Modified: Thursday March 20 2008 08:09:49 PM