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Session: Yes!

Written by Splaktar show Splaktar profile

Thursday March 13 2008 05:30:00 PM

Surf spot: San Bartolo, Peru

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Established

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 1.2 min

Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard

Fins: 3

Weather and water temp: 75 F, 72 F Water

Waves height: 1m-1.2m / 3ft-4ft

Waves Quality:
- Bumpy

Waves Shape:
- One peak

Description:

Woohoo!  One of my best days of surfing yet!  I was thinking of bodyboarding Playa Norte in Punta Hermosa, but it was flat.  La Isla didn't look too great either, so I was thinking it would be a down day.  I decided to check out San Bartolo, mostly just to see how it handled the smaller swell.

It was great!  The waves were perfect for a beginner like me! I would have liked the tide a little higher, but it was coming in and wasn't too bad.  I raced home to grab the board.

I got back and into the water as quickly as I could, knowing that I only had about 1.5 hours max before the end of twilight.  There were a good deal of people out in the water earlier, but by the time I got out there it was down to about 5 people in the lefts.  By the time I was done, it was just me and 2 others.

The waves were steady and exactly what I was looking for.  Single peak, ~4 footers.  I caught my first few waves and it really felt good.  Only 2 waves did I paddle for and not end up getting.  There were plenty of waves for me and the others.  I finished up with 2 of my most solid waves ever. 

The first I was too far up on the board and it was a larger ~5 ft wave.  I did a push up on the board and slid myself back on the board, this kept me from pearling.  Then after I was on the wave I stood up and ended up pretty far back on the board, but OK.  I managed for my first time ever to adjust my front foot forward without wiping out.  When the wave caught back up with me, I was able to keep control and continue to ride it.  I made an attempt to turn to the left, but didn't really turn my hips.  So I finally went down off to the side of the board.

The second wave was a nice 4 footer and I caught it at an angle, really trying to ride down the wave and not shoot out like a missile.  I had a good angle on the wave and was up on my feet with no problems.  I managed to move the board around some without falling or loosing control.  I was able to see all the rocks under water as I flew by them.  It was great.  Again I was able to catch the wave and not fall down when it caught up to me.  Then I actually managed to turn and go to the left, just as the wave ended.  So it was my first real 'exit' of a wave on the surfboard!  I even managed to just drop down onto the board w/o wiping out!

What a great session!  Plus the sunset was simply beautiful.  This is the first day where I really felt like I was actually surfing!

Buddies:

Created: Friday March 14 2008 01:05:50 AM

Modified: Friday March 14 2008 01:05:50 AM

Hits: 538

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