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Thursday March 13 2008 05:30:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 72 min
Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 75 F, 72 F Water
Woohoo! One of my best days of surfing yet! I was thinking of bodyboarding Playa Norte in Punta Hermosa, but it was flat. La Isla didn't look too great either, so I was thinking it would be a down day. I decided to check out San Bartolo, mostly just to see how it handled the smaller swell.
It was great! The waves were perfect for a beginner like me! I would have liked the tide a little higher, but it was coming in and wasn't too bad. I raced home to grab the board.
I got back and into the water as quickly as I could, knowing that I only had about 1.5 hours max before the end of twilight. There were a good deal of people out in the water earlier, but by the time I got out there it was down to about 5 people in the lefts. By the time I was done, it was just me and 2 others.
The waves were steady and exactly what I was looking for. Single peak, ~4 footers. I caught my first few waves and it really felt good. Only 2 waves did I paddle for and not end up getting. There were plenty of waves for me and the others. I finished up with 2 of my most solid waves ever.
The first I was too far up on the board and it was a larger ~5 ft wave. I did a push up on the board and slid myself back on the board, this kept me from pearling. Then after I was on the wave I stood up and ended up pretty far back on the board, but OK. I managed for my first time ever to adjust my front foot forward without wiping out. When the wave caught back up with me, I was able to keep control and continue to ride it. I made an attempt to turn to the left, but didn't really turn my hips. So I finally went down off to the side of the board.
The second wave was a nice 4 footer and I caught it at an angle, really trying to ride down the wave and not shoot out like a missile. I had a good angle on the wave and was up on my feet with no problems. I managed to move the board around some without falling or loosing control. I was able to see all the rocks under water as I flew by them. It was great. Again I was able to catch the wave and not fall down when it caught up to me. Then I actually managed to turn and go to the left, just as the wave ended. So it was my first real 'exit' of a wave on the surfboard! I even managed to just drop down onto the board w/o wiping out!
What a great session! Plus the sunset was simply beautiful. This is the first day where I really felt like I was actually surfing!
Created: Friday March 14 2008 01:05:50 AM
Modified: Friday March 14 2008 01:05:50 AM