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Saturday December 26 1981 12:32:32 PM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: cant remember
Length of the surf session: 2 min
Surfboard ridden: 5'3" Sky round tail
Weather and water temp: 21 deg C.
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
I remember it clear as ever. I was only eight years old and had just got the board about a month before for my birthdaay. I had already learnt to stand up about 9 months before hand on a boogie board and was still pretty green with a fiberglass board. I was catching white water and got a sick reform in the shory. It formed up on a mad left. They kept commong ththrough consistently, but as a full super grom was strugglig to paddle against the rip. I only got that one wave that was wearth talking about (or so I thought at the time!) and was so frothing that I went strait home to tell my mum.
The funny thing is that I have had sick waves almost every boxing day since.
Created: Sunday March 9 2008 12:58:24 PM
Modified: Sunday March 9 2008 12:58:24 PM