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Friday February 29 2008 02:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: 6
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: 9" Longboard
Weather and water temp: 78 F, Water 70 F
Hit Makaha in the afternoon with a friend. Constant good sized waves and no rip or chanel made paddling out a real effort. My friend decided to stay out there looking for good waves and trying to get breathers in between sets... he ended up catching very few waves and constantly paddling back out after getting pushed in.
I just caught about every wave that I could rather than deal with getting pushed back to shore constantly. Had one set where I managed to catch all 3 waves (only for 5s or so each though). My wave catching ability has increased a good deal and I was able to catch almost every wave that I paddled for. I kept the tip up and didn't do any crazy pearling head first dives. Rode a couple waves on my knees. Was my first session with surf boots. They made a lot of difference on the dirt areas where there's so much broken glass and rusty nails. They helped some with the biggest rocks but they still aren't comfortable. They gave good grip on the board, but it took a number of tries to get used to standing up with them.
Created: Monday March 3 2008 02:58:57 PM
Modified: Monday March 3 2008 02:58:57 PM