My Surf

  • My Profile
  • My Travel Map
  • My Surfed Spots
  • My Sessions
  • My Trips
  • My Pictures
  • My Messages
  • My Blog
  • Add new blog

Surf spot atlas made by surfers for surfers
Enjoy and contribute!

Session: ouch !

Written by yann show yann profile

Thursday January 31 2008 11:20:00 AM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 1

Length of the surf session: 0:20 min

Surfboard ridden: 6'1

Weather and water temp: Air 3°C Water: 12°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful

Description:

The report announced 1.2 to 1.5 m. When I came on the beach it was rather 1.5 to 2m, powerful and ledgey with beautiful rights.

There was no one in the water. I decided to go. The shorebreak was difficult to pass as it was so hollow. I haven't the level to surf there. I went to the outside bank at 500 m outside. Waves were big and the peak was moving and there was a lot of current.

After few tries, I managed to catch a wave and I realized that my board was too short: I should have take my 6'8".

When I was waiting to the peak, a bigger set came...I dive but Sealed I hear a 'clounch' , It was my leash... and my board went away.

So the situation was: alone in the water, 500m outside, strong currents, with big sets. I didn't felt comfortable. I have started to swim back to the beach and staying at the impact zone to avoid the currents. After 15 mn of paddle I get my board which was stuck ed just between the bowl and the rip currents. Ouf ! I get my board.

The second obstacle was the insane shorebreak: I lost again my board to avoid to be knocked with it (a bodyboarder was dead here 2 weeks ago for the same reason...)

I actually managed to swin to the beach...and I decide to come back home !

yb080131grandcrohotb the outside bank with powerful rights

yb080131grandcrohota Check the shore break. it was bigger than it seems on the photo: around 1.5m (hollow)

Buddies:

Created: Thursday January 31 2008 02:57:43 PM

Modified: Tuesday February 5 2008 01:46:46 PM

Hits: 733

community menu

My Surf

  • My Profile
  • My Travel Map
  • My Surfed Spots
  • My Sessions
  • My Trips
  • My Pictures
  • My Messages
  • My Blog
  • Add new blog

The Lineup


No Members and
764 Guests Online

Advertise

Local business

Ultra Wave Surfboards
On the Go!

Wannasurf.com on your mobile

RSS All the RSS feeds of Wannasurf.com

Newsletter All news by email

Friends of Wannasurf

Wannasurf Online Shop