|Find the best surf spots||
Thursday January 31 2008 11:20:00 AM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 1
Length of the surf session: 0:20 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'1
Weather and water temp: Air 3°C Water: 12°C
Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft
The report announced 1.2 to 1.5 m. When I came on the beach it was rather 1.5 to 2m, powerful and ledgey with beautiful rights.
There was no one in the water. I decided to go. The shorebreak was difficult to pass as it was so hollow. I haven't the level to surf there. I went to the outside bank at 500 m outside. Waves were big and the peak was moving and there was a lot of current.
After few tries, I managed to catch a wave and I realized that my board was too short: I should have take my 6'8".
When I was waiting to the peak, a bigger set came...I dive but I hear a 'clounch' , It was my leash... and my board went away.
So the situation was: alone in the water, 500m outside, strong currents, with big sets. I didn't felt comfortable. I have started to swim back to the beach and staying at the impact zone to avoid the currents. After 15 mn of paddle I get my board which was stuck ed just between the bowl and the rip currents. Ouf ! I get my board.
The second obstacle was the insane shorebreak: I lost again my board to avoid to be knocked with it (a bodyboarder was dead here 2 weeks ago for the same reason...)
I actually managed to swin to the beach...and I decide to come back home !
Created: Thursday January 31 2008 02:57:43 PM
Modified: Tuesday February 5 2008 01:46:46 PM