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Session: ouch !

Written by yann

Thursday January 31 2008 11:20:00 AM

Surf spot: Grand Crohot, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Onshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 1

Length of the surf session: 0:20 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'1

Weather and water temp: Air 3°C Water: 12°C

Waves height: 1.5m-2m /5ft-6ft

Waves Quality:
- Ledgey
- Powerful

Description:

The report announced 1.2 to 1.5 m. When I came on the beach it was rather 1.5 to 2m, powerful and ledgey with beautiful rights.

There was no one in the water. I decided to go. The shorebreak was difficult to pass as it was so hollow. I haven't the level to surf there. I went to the outside bank at 500 m outside. Waves were big and the peak was moving and there was a lot of current.

After few tries, I managed to catch a wave and I realized that my board was too short: I should have take my 6'8".

When I was waiting to the peak, a bigger set came...I dive but I hear a 'clounch' , It was my leash... and my board went away.

So the situation was: alone in the water, 500m outside, strong currents, with big sets. I didn't felt comfortable. I have started to swim back to the beach and staying at the impact zone to avoid the currents. After 15 mn of paddle I get my board which was stuck ed just between the bowl and the rip currents. Ouf ! I get my board.

The second obstacle was the insane shorebreak: I lost again my board to avoid to be knocked with it (a bodyboarder was dead here 2 weeks ago for the same reason...)

I actually managed to swin to the beach...and I decide to come back home !

the outside bank with powerful rights