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Wednesday December 31 1969 08:59:59 PM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 180 min
Surfboard ridden: Noserider
Sometimes the best sessions are not fleeting moments on giant waves ... a do or die adrenaline rush ... some times they are just pure well ... FUN.
As usual during the crowded tourist infected summer on the Queensland , Gold Coast combined with typical strong NE onshore wind my mates and I would drive south down the coast past scenic Cabarita point over the hills and back along the coast road to the small community of Bryon Bay. Byron is most easterly point on the Australian coastline complete with a historic lighthouse overlooking the headland from which you can see schools of sharks patrolling ... no incidents of attacks as the surfing spots of “The Pass” and “Tallow’s” lie inside plus we figured they were not very hungry as there was plenty to munch on.
The routine was to surf Tallow’s on the back side which was protected from the nor’easter (not unusual to see Bob MacTavish, Nat Young and crew out there during the late sixties and early seventies) and spend Saturday night at the local bar where you might lucky or at least get bombed ... remember driving a Ford wagon off a side road one night down into ditch ... opened the door ... barfed ... fell in it and woke up next morning feeling very seedy to say the least ... lucky some mates came by and got us out.
Anyway one weekend as the wind was strong onshore and the swell huge we drove further south past Broken Head to the small sea side town of Ballina. At Ballina you could surf the protected north or south breakwaters ... shark heavens ... where the wind was cross shore or if the swell was big enough inside the Ballina River itself.
This day ... across a sandbar in the river where the freshwater met the ocean by a bridge peeled perfect waist high left handers ... a few locals out and a bunch of kids making sandcastles at waters edge. We ripped it up for three hours ... 85F degree water 90F air temp sand and silt bottom with a gentle breeze. Queensland and northern New South Wales is the land of right hand point breaks ... lefts are hard to find ... if you are a goofy you surf your backhand better than your forehand!
On my last wave I snapped turned from the top walked up to the nose and stayed there ... used my knees to hold position as the wave broke perfectly all the way from the sandbar to the beach ... hoping some one was watching as I approached dry sand ... still on the nose ... pulled off a spinner and stepped onto a kiddy sandcastle!
Created: Wednesday December 27 2006 09:04:50 PM
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:22:20 PM