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Thursday December 6 2007 07:13:24 AM
Length of the surf session: 240 min
Surfboard ridden: 12'8.5" standup gun
Weather and water temp: foggy 52°
2 hour paddle out. went through the lagoon to the lineup. got lost in the fog. half mile past the green buoy and 1 mile south of the takeoff zone. picked up by John John Florence's video boat. scary session. Jeff Clark was not pleased - just shook his head in disgust and said, "heavy man...I don't even know how to respond to that one." Swell of the decade. It was pretty stupid to go out alone. That boat saved my ass.
Created: Thursday December 6 2007 07:29:29 AM
Modified: Thursday December 6 2007 07:29:29 AM