|Find the best surf spots||
Saturday April 28 2007 12:11:35 PM
Nb waves ridden: 40
Length of the surf session: 240 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'0 thruster, wonka shapes
Fins: flex fins
Weather and water temp: cloudy, warm water
it was the morning of my sisters wedding. we're all stayin at our holiday house on the front beach at hastingpoint. get up as it's just gettin light... bout 4.30 and check it out the front. usually wego to the head and check it from there and then take a drive up to caba coz that's a lot more consistent then hastings point. well i was so convinced that i didn't even bother going to check the other spots. could not have cared in the slightest coz out the front was covered with these epic as hollow a-frames which peel for between 50 and 200 metres depending on wave choice.
i take a run down there and jump in. i'm surfin off my tits for bout 4 hours and i know that i gotta go in in about an hour for my sisters wedding. it at 12 about 4 kms down the road so i'm thinkin all i need is bout 15 minutes. i cutting it pretty thin but this surf is so good that i would not miss any of it if i can help it. with the realisation that i gotta leave real soon i start tryin some pretty insane shit which is puchin my levels to the max. pretty sketchy stuff especially with these overhead mutants crashin onto knee deep water.
the wave that ended the session was definitely one of the most memorable waves of my life. it's a backhand wave which banks up for a fucking long time. i
Created: Monday December 3 2007 12:23:58 PM
Modified: Monday December 3 2007 12:23:58 PM