|Find the best surf spots||
Thursday September 5 1996 03:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: maybe more than 20
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: Malibu
I was in a bordind school that year . What happend is that I felt like surfing rather than schooling in september , just after spending july and august surfing Lacanau ( France ) on my Pipe Dream 6'6 . My friend and i decided to stay in his parents for the weekend . My mate got his driving license a few month ago and I introduced him to surf during the past summer . his parents offered him a malibu . He became a surf searcher in about 3 month , and I could see the changes in him , like he got less potato couch , he spent less time sleeping , he felt really better .
the weather was more like a romantique and hard weather dark cloud painting and brown sea with tinny multipeak braeks sometimes glassy . Not really a surf spot ? I'd rather say the funniest uncrowded , unexpected surf spot . I spent 1h30 in the water , taking as much wave I could . After , we felt like having hot chocolate . There is a lot of " Pubs " around , you can find the crowd there while it's raining outside .
Ok , Berk isn't Uluwatu , but it's fine for me as far as I shared a really good time with my mate and surfed like a dum alone on this mud/sand beach , and I missed school for a day .
Created: Saturday December 23 2006 02:58:13 PM
Modified: Saturday December 23 2006 02:58:13 PM