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Wednesday July 6 1977 11:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: a few
Surfboard ridden: Farrely Single white and blue ( the lesh fixed on the single fin )
Fins: single ( with a holl to fix the lesh )
My first session ever . I was born the same year , a few month ago .
I could hardly walk yet , so my father just sat me on this olddie Original Farrely single waxed with Parafine and pushed me into tiny waves .
The water was warm , I felt safe and had great fun .
Since that day , I returned to Lacanau every summer . I know this place for years now , and feel the same intense and incredible exitement each time I approach to Lacanau . It usually begins when I drive into " Lacanau Ville " .
It has something with the shinning or something to me . it's hard to explain .
Created: Saturday December 23 2006 02:18:01 PM
Modified: Saturday December 23 2006 02:18:01 PM