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Thursday January 1 1970 12:59:59 AM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Wind direction: Offshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: Several
Length of the surf session: 60 min
Surfboard ridden: Longboard
Waves height: 4.5m-6m / 15ft-20ft
Back in the late 60’s was over of the northwest coast of the north island of New Zealand at a spot called Phia with three buddies from the Gold Coast, OZ. A pacific cyclone in the Tasman Sea was producing giant surf added to the fact that NZ (being volcanic) has little continental shelf and has a huge tidal difference we had to wait for high tide to even think about trying to get out.
After high tide we watched from the shore and waited half an hour for a lull before we made it out through the mass of white water. We picked off a couple of the smaller (cleaner) but still overhead peaks that did not totally wall out when we looked out to sea and saw mountains marching in … feathering on an outside reef in deep water a mile out!
What to do … too far out to paddle in past the impact zone … not far out to make it over the top … I looked at my buddy as we scratched for the horizon and said “I’m going to take off on the first wave and prone out.” “Yeah me too he said!”
As the first mountain walled up we both spun around … and took off. I made the drop … shot way out in front of the wave … then proned out lying way back by the tail holding on with a death grip … took the concussion and bounced, slapped and skipped engulfed inwhite water all the way to the shore.
Robbie Acton made it also but Stu Adams kept paddling out to sea .... finally he took off on a monster … must have been 20 feet. He made the drop and turn then just got wasted … (we looked around for help none he was on his own) took him an hour to swim in … got swept a mile down the beach and just collapsed on the sand ... his board disappeared!
Created: Wednesday December 20 2006 10:16:01 PM
Modified: Thursday June 7 2007 09:21:49 PM