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Sunday October 7 2007 10:00:00 AM
Wind direction: Onshore
Wind Strength: Light
Nb waves ridden: 7
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'4'' Depeyris
Waves height: 1.0m-1.5m / 3ft-5ft
- Close out
Well, as Yann said, this session was really bad. The swell was there but sandbanks not.
The first hour, I only took one right. The rest of the time, just waiting for a non-closing swell. beurk! Finally, we decided to go 100m north and take the small second-waves after the main swell crash on the main sandbank. It was much funny, I took several small waves during the last 30 min.
Then Olivier asked me if I had already seen a road deer swimming in the ocean... I said, What??? And it was true, something looking as a roe deer or a doe was swept along by the current (a baïne as we called them here). After some seconds, I decided to reach the animal and help him not to swim against the current but bypass the current by swimming side to the shore for a few meters, then returning to the shore more easily.
I join the animal very quickly, the current was on my side. He was certainly asking himself was was this stange animal on this white wooden stick :) I force him swimming in the good direction, then we reached the beach. As many people was interested by the scene, the animal was more scary by those pople than the waves (sic!) and preferred to jumb back into the waves.
This time, Yann helped me (he was swimming fast!!!). We forced him to return to the beach a second time, and said to everyone to step back. He was so exhausted that one more wave would kill him. He stayed closed to the shorebreak, so I had to carry him out... He was howling without beeing able to move. Really too tired to move forward.
He just walked 20m and laied down for some rest. We changed our clothes and 30min later, he went away into the dunes. Hope he will survive his surf session...
Incredible surf session !
Created: Monday October 8 2007 06:36:50 PM
Modified: Monday October 15 2007 10:12:14 PM