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Tuesday September 25 2007 04:55:54 PM
Surf Trip: The Endless Summer 63-73 ( 15 November 1963 - 07 June 2007)
Wind direction: No wind
Wind Strength: Glassy
Nb waves ridden: Lots
Length of the surf session: 150 min
Surfboard ridden: Super Fish
Weather and water temp: 72F X 70F
Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft
- One peak
Fall came in on the wings of a fast mover (the Boeing C17 guys over in Long Beach were doing some delam repair on a B-1 bomber ... took off on full after-burners and did a low, slow flyby ... what a hell of a racket ... every car alarm within 10 blocks went off) anyway temp dropped from an all time August record of 113 F at the beach to 68F and water temps dove from 72F to 58F!
Fun sessions the past few weeks among the frolicking sting rays of breeding season ... some nasty hits. Tony still has an open sore on the side of his foot from a week ago ... nurse, nurse it hurts! My buddy "Bruce" has never had the pleasure ... yet! He trys to keep his feet from touching the bottom ... at all times!
Ruby Tuesday: September 25th
Dawn patrol this morning ... perfect conditions ... very slight offshore wind ... clear, pale blue sky with an orange and yellow sun just peaking over the Sana Anna mountains at 6.15AM. The mixed south and west swells were smaller than yesterday's sometimes overhead sets ... about chest to head high ... but much cleaner ... tide was a little high (if we had had a early morning minus tide with the incoming push of a mid morning high of say 5 feet it would have been epic) but still super.
Just three of us sitting outside of Crabs ... taking off on the other side of the peak, through the bowl to the inside wall. Tom scored an overhead set wave ... deep, no paddle take off ... under the bowl ... racing across the wall in perfect trim on the high line. Bob snagged a clean head high wall and held a perfect cheater five all the way, with the rising sun back lighting the spray. I took off steep & deep on my Super Fish crouched under the bowl and hit the shoulder at max speed ... Tom had just taken off saw me coming and pulled out ... leaving me a perfect wall to set up: smack, smack, smack's off the lip.
The crew sitting inside were impressed ... you guys all get perfect 10's!
Yesterday was bigger and Bruce was king ... taking off on overhead, bumpy shifting peaks and yelling ... watch out coming through!
August:Yes you can ... nose ride a Fish! Was out surfing the dawn patrol on the sandbar at the San Gabriel river mouth by Seal Beach (Ray Bay) the past week riding my MR design 7'2" "Super Fish". Knee to waist with occasional chest or better set waves ... glassy summer conditions, 70F air ... 70F water.
Anyway was doing the short board snap snap pivots coming easy off the bottom and setting up a big smack off the top when a knee high long glass wall popped up across the inside bar ... why not go high, step up and cheater five like my 9' 0" ... yeah it worked!
Once I discovered it would work ... fun fun fun .... of course you can't stay up there as long.
Best wave of the week ... was sitting outside with a couple of buddies by Cuda's (North Wall) when the wave of the day (clean head high peak) rolled through ... party wave .... everyone paddled ... I yelled going left ... Tony who was on the other side went right leaving my buddy River Bob the meat in the sandwich.
Bob took off right ... saw Tony and changed his mind ... my Fish has a tendency to hang high and needs a steeper face to drop in so Bob was already at the bottom of the trough when I dropped down at max speed .... saw him out of the corner of mr eye and launched out and up like a rocket coming up in the perfect spot right under the lip ... a couple of pumps and a big arc cutback as the wave hit deeper water .... Bob was left to get swallowed by white water ...
"Nice bottom turn" he said "was following your track but did'nt quite make the section"!
Sorry Charlie ....
Created: Thursday September 20 2007 04:58:58 PM
Modified: Wednesday September 26 2007 06:09:01 AM