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Session: the nightmare

Written by yann

Saturday July 7 2007 08:00:00 AM

Surf spot: Le Porge, France

Session's Rate:

Wind direction: Offshore

Wind Strength: Light

Nb waves ridden: 5

Length of the surf session: 0:45 hours

Surfboard ridden: 6'1

Weather and water temp: Cloudy: 19°C and water around 18°C

Waves height: 1.5m / 5ft

Waves Quality:
- Powerful
- Fast

Waves Shape:
- Multipeaks
- Close out

Description:

Ouch, I have broken my magical board! It was maybe the first real swell since 2 monthes. Waves were around 1.5m with some bigger sets at 2m. The current was pretty strong and the sandbanks have moved a little.

I managed to keep some waves: left were hollow and fast. Rights were easier to surf. I took a good right but when I paddled back, a bigger set was closed and I was just in the impact zone. This swell was long and more powerful thant it seem from the beach. When I get back my board: it was broken !! Even if I had a second board, I was so desappointed that I just came back... I went to Lacanau and I found the same board hopefully!