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Saturday July 7 2007 08:00:00 AM
Nb waves ridden: 5
Length of the surf session: 0:45 min
Surfboard ridden: 6'1
Weather and water temp: Cloudy: 19°C and water around 18°C
Ouch, I have broken my magical board! It was maybe the first real swell since 2 monthes. Waves were around 1.5m with some bigger sets at 2m. The current was pretty strong and the sandbanks have moved a little.
I managed to keep some waves: left were hollow and fast. Rights were easier to surf. I took a good right but when I paddled back, a bigger set was closed and I was just in the impact zone. This swell was long and more powerful thant it seem from the beach. When I get back my board: it was broken !! Even if I had a second board, I was so desappointed that I just came back... I went to Lacanau and I found the same board hopefully!
Created: Sunday July 8 2007 11:38:11 AM
Modified: Sunday July 8 2007 11:42:31 AM