My Surf

  • My Profile
  • My Travel Map
  • My Surfed Spots
  • My Sessions
  • My Trips
  • My Pictures
  • My Messages
  • My Blog
  • Add new blog

Surf spot atlas made by surfers for surfers
Enjoy and contribute!

Session: El Porto Anyone?

Written by Jungle Bunny show Jungle Bunny profile

Thursday July 5 2007 04:00:00 PM

Surf spot: El Porto, United States of America

Description:

So there I was, paddling for my life, wondering if I was going to make it out of this alive. A huge wave was welling up on the horizon, and here I was, paddling for my life, making my arms push themselves as deep into the water as I could, trying to maintain the long, slow strokes that would keep me in trim, doing anything I could to reduce as much drag as possible, trying my best to maintain the momentum. I was not entirely sure if I was going to make it, but sheer will was making me push forward, as I was determined NOT to get dumped on by this monster of a wave. Meanwhile, in my head, I kept telling myself that I need to remain calm and collected. I was practically screaming this to myself over and over, on the brink of sheer panic, yet I knew if I gave into that impulse, i would be totally fucked.

So I paddled and I paddled, having that horrible feeling that I was not actually going anywhere. It reminds me of those nightmares I have occasionally, you know, the ones where you're running from something, but you cant move or you're running in slow motion. The feeling is horribly similar to just that. However, I was moving, and FAST. Those long, slow strokes paid off as I finally reached this goliath of a wave, just as it was just starting to well up. The relief I felt was short lived as I realized I hadn't yet made it out of the drop zone. My arms were so tired, I felt like they were lead weights, yet I forced myself to keep going with the same momentum.

This monster was welling up like nothing I had ever experienced before. As I paddled, I got the feeling that I was trying to paddle up a fucking mountain. This monster of a wave just kept on going FOREVER, the more I paddled, the higher it got, or so it seemed. I couldn't even see the top of this thing, all I saw was the face of the most enormous mutha fucker of a wave that I had ever been on.

This was the shit I had been striving for all summer, this was the real shit, the big time. The little ripples I had conqured over at Bay Street last summer, that made me feel like such a bad ass, were NOTHING compared to this shit right here. This was what I had been pushing my self all summer for. This was the reason I was black and blue all over, taking beating after beating, forcing myself beyond those fears and hang ups that I felt were holding me back.

Self doubt started seeping into my mind, as I started thinking to myself, "do I REALLY have ANY business being out here right now?" I couldn't help but question myself, for the ocean that was so calm, not an hour before, took on an angry, menacing look as these monsters just rose out of the sea, seemingly out of nowhere.

At last, I had made it to the top, triumphant, as I shot myself up and over the peak, victoriously. I felt on top of the world, well literally, since the wave was so huge, that I felt as if I were teetering on top of a two story building as I gracefully soared up and over the wave, as it crashed down, behind me in the distance, with an thunderous roar, that was a bit unsettling to say the least.

There were more monsters coming in like this. I started to feel a bit sea sick as the ocean was churning, as the wind picked up and added a slight chop to the already challenging conditions.

That was probably the worst of it. those sets of gynormous waves came in for about a half hour, or an hour or so, then let up a bit to more reasonable conditions. Well, reasonable for me, anyway. I'm sure everyone else out there was loving it. I couldn't really tell, seeing as how, for a good part of that time, all I saw were huge waves all around, as I bobbed around to and fro, passing up wave after wave, waiting for one that was a bit more reasonable, as I asked myself, "I don't have a death wish, now do I?"

So off in the distance, I see one, I know it's the one. Looks kind of big, but after that whole fiasco I just experienced, I was like, fuck it, it's coming right to me, I'm gonna go for it! So I get myself all nice and ready, I start paddling...Then I glance back over my shoulder, and doubt starts creeping in. I'm a bit further inside than I should be, (I was trying something new that day, after some great advice from a friend, but that's a whole other story) as I realize this wave is gonna break a bit sooner than the others. But I can't turn back now, it's too late, so I decide that the only thing I can do is go for it. I know that if I hesitate, it's gonna be all over for me. So I paddle and paddle and paddle, and you know what? I caught it and rode it all the way in. It was fucking unbelievable. By no means was it flawless, I pretty much caught it right as it was dumping on me. It was coming in so fast that it almost knocked me off my board. I had to hang onto the rails for dear life as the rest of my body was pretty much airborne. But I just stayed with it, until I had things under control, then hopped up and had the ride of my FUCKING LIFE!

I rode this wave for what felt like FOREVER, it shot me out soooooo fast, it was unbelievable. I had this big epiphany while riding that wave. One of the areas I have been trying to perfect is my turns. I was having trouble with them before, but this time, It was no sweat. I realized that turning is a million times easier when you're being shot out at warp speed....I was having no problem turning, going left and right, just feeling it out and having a blast. I got to the shore, and leaned back, coming to a quick stop, I had things under control. :D

But then, I had to get back out there. Getting through the soup was becoming a real pain in the ass, what with the mountains welling up and the light chop and what not. But I was having a blast and wanted another one sooooooooo bad...

This time, as I paddled up another "mountain range" i realized that the shape of the waves were quite nice, they were huge, but I started noticing that there was this nice gradual incline to their face and I imagined what it would be like to be shooting down that thing, thinking that the drop might not be quite as terrifying due to the graceful curve of it's slope. I decided I wanted one of those monsters and that by the end of the day, I would be dropping down one of those fuckers, by golly!

It was decided. I was determined...

I caught some really great waves that day, however, I never did get to ride one of those huge waves I wanted so bad. I was already pretty tired out at that point, and had very little energy left in me, plus I started getting frustrated, which always fucks my shit up, I have this competitive streak in me that sometimes rears it's ugly head, and doesn't really get me anywhere. The sun was going down and I wanted one of those giants so bad, I kept getting mad, when I would paddle for one, and miss it, or pop up to soon and the wave would keep going, as I started cursing and muttering under my breath...thats always a sign that it's time for me to call it a day. When sheer frustration kicks in and takes all the fun out of it.

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/MeAfterSurf.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/Sunset.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

That's okay I thought, tomorrow's another day, right? So I dragged my weary ass to shore. I got all my stuff together then walked back towards the other end of the beach, where I proceeded to take part in my new routine of surfing till weary, then heading back to the other end of the beach, to watch the surfers do their thang, while the sun sets in the distance. I love this time of day, it's beautiful, magical, the golden hour.

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/OilRig.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7607.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

I watched these guys glide through the waves with an effortless grace. Its an exhillerating feeling just watching really experienced surfers. Everytime I do, it reconfirms my determination to be one of those guys out there, tearing up the waves. I saw some guy surf switch right in the middle of his wave, I didn't even know you could do that! Pretty cool, I guess I can learn a thing or two just by watchin.

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7572.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7583.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7578.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>
s
It struck me how ironic the nature of surfing actually is. I mean, it can be pretty brutal at times, especially for someone at my expertise level, yet watching these guys glide through the waves, it's amazing how graceful surfing actually is. someday I'll get there, and I will look back on these blogs and laugh about the trials and tribulations it took to get to that point. These are some great days though, the days i'm gonna cherish  for the rest of my life...

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7604.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7601.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7591.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

<a xhref="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img xsrc="http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i173/rhetoric2/Surf/ElPortoSurfers/DSCN7593.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

To Be Continued...

Buddies:

Created: Thursday July 5 2007 11:00:05 PM

Modified: Saturday July 7 2007 03:32:26 AM

Hits: 947

community menu

My Surf

  • My Profile
  • My Travel Map
  • My Surfed Spots
  • My Sessions
  • My Trips
  • My Pictures
  • My Messages
  • My Blog
  • Add new blog

The Lineup


No Members and
461 Guests Online

Advertise

Local business

Ultra Wave Surfboards
On the Go!

Wannasurf.com on your mobile

RSS All the RSS feeds of Wannasurf.com

Newsletter All news by email

Friends of Wannasurf

Wannasurf Online Shop