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Wednesday July 4 2007 04:20:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: More than I thought, I was told after!
Length of the surf session: 4 hours
Surfboard ridden: 9ft soft top :( Blah
Weather and water temp: not to cold, overcast
So for the 4th, we decided to head out to my new fav spot at El Porto which was a fiasco due to road closures, but my determination was such that somehow I found our way there.
The place was PACKED. We were super lucky to even find a parking spot. The day was overcast, which was actually nice, since I tan easily and needed a break from the sun for one day. For some odd reason, there were few surfers out there compared to the last time I had been there, last Monday. Which was alright, since I was able to find a nice, empty spot at the far end, to concentrate and not worry about getting in the way of people. It looked gnarly from the shore. i saw people wiping out left and right, I was cursing myself for being such a chicken and took an extra long time to stretch, thinking i would need a good one for the beating I was about to take, and also to stall and watch the ocean, debating if I even was really willing to get out there. The sign on the lifeguard tower said 2-4 feet, some waves looked a bit bigger, and it was about two hours before low tide.
Well after stalling for a good while, there came a lull in the sets that I had been waiting for, so I paddled out. When I got out there, I was surprised to find that it wasn't nearly as bad as it had looked, which was a shocker to me, since in my experience, things always look much more mellow from the car, or even from the shore. I kept telling myself to stay calm, relaxed and to breathe deeply, which I tend to forget sometimes in my ambition to get that wave of the day. This helped so much. I was calm, collected and waited and waited. i wanted to get the day off to a good start, because getting worked first thing always fucks my shit up big time. The blow to the ego is the worst part for me, then it's usually all downhill from there.
It was my second time at El Porto, and I was really getting accustomed to the way the waves break and so forth. Finally, far off on the horizon, I saw one, not too big, not too small, and coming right to me. I started paddling and caught it, riding it all the way in. I don't think I had even gotten my hair wet at this point. But I was super proud of myself. I don't need to try to explain the feeling here, because I know you all know what that feels like, only a surfer really knows, a friend of mine once said, but that statement is oh so true. I didn't catch one quite that good for the remainder of the day, even though I was trying to...You guys know, thats one of the things that keeps us going till the sun goes down sometimes, right? But I caught a bunch, got worked a few times, but nothing to crazy scary. It was all in all a fun time.
Except, that is for the end of my session, when I heard all this commotion and saw a bunch of surfers near me start freaking out and catching the next wave to shore. I thought I heard someone yell "OH SHIT" and coulda swore someone else yelled "SHARK" and thought i saw a fin, and then something jump out of the water as everyone hightailed it back in, but there was alot of commotion going on so i cant really be sure. I almost crapped my pants, but I told myself I gotta stay calm, and caught the next wave, and even rode it in, i was so calm...But still, it was my first experience of the sort, and even though I can't be sure what really happened there, It was pretty fucking crazy. The thing is, that there were these dudes fishing about directly in front of where the surfers that were freaking out were, so it all seems kind of plausable, the ocean was empty after that except for like, two people further down. I guess it happens, never happened to me before, but I suppose I had better get used to it, being in a habitat full of creatures that call my playground home.
So we headed out as the cops were rounding everyone up, letting us know the beach was closing. Fucking El Porto, even the COPS are cool as hell there. They just went around announcing that the beach was closed and we would get locked in if we didnt split soon, instead of kicking our asses out, like most beaches i've been to. I laughed with the realization that these cops totally talked like surfers themselves, "surfing cops" I thought to myself with a chuckle, "imagine that."
We got on the 105 freeway to head home. The timing was impeccable. The firework shows were going off all around us, and the elevation of the freeway gave us a perfect 360 degree view of all the explosions. I have never been eye level with fireworks before, and I never realized just how many firework shows went off simutaniously on the 4th. It was incredible. The whole way home, we had a perfect unobstructed view of all of LA's fireworks, and it was an insainely perfect end to the day....To Be Continued...
Created: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM
Modified: Thursday July 5 2007 10:57:12 PM