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Tuesday July 3 2007 04:00:00 PM
Nb waves ridden: A few....Almost
Length of the surf session: 90 min
Surfboard ridden: Good 'ol "Red"
Weather and water temp: colder than LA thats for sure
Waves height: Less than 1m / 3ft
This wasn't at Pismo, it was actually at Shell Beach, probably a mile down from Piso. It kinda sucked, the waves died out before I could get acclimated to the colder northern waters, and the super slow waves that would just roll in without breaking, sloooooooowwwwwwly. There were some good lefts and rights, which totally fucked me up. The LA beaches I frequent have equal opportunity waves that offer lefts and rights, but i'm gonna have to get used to that shit someday, so it's all good.
I heard they had just caught a 15 ft great white in Avila Bay, which is bout a hop, skip and a jump away from Shell Beach. Luckily, I was told this after our session, "there are sharks up here, but they don't fuck with you." my surf buddy informed me. I just laughed and was glad I was told this AFTER the fact. I guess they butchered that shark, which is horrid. Even when i get a bit freaked seeing a shaddow off in the distance, when surfing alone, or while intoxicated, I know my fears of these creatures are pretty irrational and unlikely. I read about sharks alot, to learn about the habbits of these ancient creatures, I figure the knowledge is a good measure of prevention, should the unlikely, become reality...
But i's still a shame that these powerful beasts that are the definitive Darwinism on evolution at it's finest, a creature barely evolved, for billions of years, and yet we humans freak out, even though WE are the ones encroaching on THEIR habitat, and feel the need to destroy it immediately. Its a shame. Perhaps if I saw one in the water, right next to me, I might feel different, however, I have much respect for the ocean, more so now than ever, and all the creatures in it, as scary as they may see at times, but it's nature and must be respected.
Okay, that's enough ranting from me for one day, I wanna be a writer, right? So I tend to ramble....Anyway...Stay tuned for the next enthralling chapter of "Theadora's Surf Sessions." Now it's off the the beach for some surfin, fireworks and fun. Happy 4th Everybody! Take it eazy!
To Be Continued...
Created: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM
Modified: Wednesday July 4 2007 10:47:59 PM