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Marcus

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Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/06 15:03 SoCal Surf Reports

Because I'd rather not give any more publicity to the spots that I surf, I'm going to post reports here. Feel free to add your own, but don't name spots.

Scale: (Face height)
Flat or Ankle Biters
KH - Knee High
WH - Waist High
CH - Chest High
SH - Shoulder High
HH - Head High
OH - Overhead.
DOH - Double Overhead (etc...)
Beyond that, I'll start guessing at face heights in feet.

Date: Tuesday, 12-04-2007
Time: 7AM-9AM
Break: R-hand point.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: HH - OH, OCC OH++
Surface: Semi-glassy
Rating (10=best): 4
Description:
Raw W swell coming in with short periods. There was a lot of windswell and junk mixed in this morning, but when the sets came through, you knew it. It was getting progressively bigger and the surfers were looking progressively smaller. The tide backed off and the point eased up a little size-and-consistancy-wise later, but overall the swell is on the rise. Sectiony workable shoulders but very BUMPY with the mixed-in windswell. The wind seemed to be easing off at 9...

Tomorrow will likely be out of control. Don't paddle out unless you know what you're doing. Take a camera.

Date: Wednesday, 12-05-2007
Time: 6AM-8:30AM
Break: Cloudbreak Reef (R&L)
Swell Direction: West
Period: LOOOOONG
Size: 15-20 FEET! (Face height)
Surface: Semi-Chop degrading to fully choppy.
Rating (10=best): 3
Description:
Much more raw POWER pushing through this morning. The only place the paddleout was makeable was in the shadow of the reef. Everywhere else was 100 yards of freight-training whitewash. A powerful riptide and timing your paddleout was essential to making it through the walled DOH insiders. It looked pretty hairy from the clifftop, but I paddled out with 3 buddies anyway. Squeaked out between sets and made the loooong paddle out to the reef. Joined 10 guys on guns dropping in on some real growlers. Only caught a few waves, but the drop was quite a thrill. Unfortunately, SSE winds kicked up and blew up some cross chop that made it difficult, then impossible, to get down the face. Took a few photos after I gave up. Photog with a BIG telephoto lens might have got me dropping a smaller one. I'm attaching a cropped pic of one of the smaller waves. The speck in front of the whitewash is a surfer about to get steamrollered. If you think you recognize the spot, please keep it to yourself.

...

Date: Wednesday, 12-05-2007
Time: 10AM-12NOON
Break: Pointbreak (R&L)
Swell Direction: West
Period: Mixed
Size: HH-OH, OCC OH+
Surface: Blue and Glassy.
Rating (10=best): 6
Description:
Went "around the bend" after realizing I wasn't the right kind of crazy to surf any other west-facing breaks today. (15-20' faces are fine when you can paddle up to them from the side, not when you have to power through them from shore!) Checked a bunch of sloppy-looking south-facing breaks and settled on a little rocky pointbreak. Caught a few left-handers that threw little tuck-in barrels. That left you in the impact zone to take some punishment. The rights were better, but stay on them too long and you'd donate a pound of flesh to the rocks on the inside. Caught one spectacular OH+ right-hander along with a bunch of good ones. Steep, big, fast drop, clean blue water, solid slashable shoulder; fun!

Will head back to W-facing local breaks tomorrow as the swell drops.

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Marcus

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Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Re:Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/07 02:26 Date: Thursday, 12-06-2007
Time: 6:30AM-8:30AM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: HH - OH to the south OH+ to DOH to the north.
Surface: Smooth, light offshores.
Rating (10=best): 5
Description:
Still more lumpy W swell, fading now from yesterday. A sheltered spot was picking up peaky A-frame OH waves with steep drops that mushed out far too quickly or closed out far too fast. Headed just down the beach a bit where big OH+ to DOH mounds were sweeping through. These were peaky too, but due to the size, you could be thankful for that. Do not blow your drop or you will really regret it. A little too much tide, but still some nice corners to be had. Nobody else out at either spot. Where is everyone? The paddleout wasn't that bad. I've seen much bigger days with a bigger crowd. It looked a bit junky from shore, but it was pretty good once you got out there. A lot of work, though. Especially if you got caught inside.

Tomorrow looks like rain and--worse than that--strong onshores early. Get it while the gettin's good.

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Marcus

User

Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Re:Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/08 07:33 Date: Friday, 12-07-2007
Time: 10AM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: HH - OH.
Surface: Victory At Sea
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
More West. Still good size. Totally blown out though. Rideable if you really wanna or you know a sheltered spot.

More onshores and more junky west swell on tap for tomorrow. Might be clean for dawn patrol, but don't count on it.

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Marcus

User

Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Re:Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/11 15:15 Date: Saturday, 12-08-2007
Time: 8AM
Break: Everywhere.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: CH - HH.
Surface: Junky
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
More West. Still good size. Morning sickness from all the winds, though. Sheltered south-facing spots were cleaner, but pretty small (CH or less).

Forecast to be smaller tomorrow. Probably going to be crowded from all the people who missed the midweek swell.

Date: Sunday, 12-09-2007
Time: 12PM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: WH-CH.
Surface: Glassy
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
Tailing off. That's about it for that West.

Forecast to be smaller tomorrow. Deep tide in the AM.

Date: Monday, 12-10-2007
Time: 9AM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: West
Period: Medium
Size: Ankle Biters
Surface: Glassy
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
Flat on the high tide. Might be something rideable at low at the points...

Forecast to be smaller tomorrow, if that's even possible. Very deep tide in the AM. Time to work on my bike and go for a run. Not much on the horizon until maybe Friday.

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Marcus

User

Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Re:Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/13 00:03 Date: Tuesday, 12-11-2007
Time: 9AM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: None
Period: None
Size: Flat
Surface: Glassy
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
Lake Pacifica.

Date: Wednesday, 12-12-2007
Time: 6AM
Break: Beach, no break.
Swell Direction: None
Period: None
Size: Flat
Surface: Glassy
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
Flaaaaaaaat... Learning the joy of running.

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Marcus

User

Platinum Boarder

Posts: 80

Karma: 5

Re:Daily SoCal Surf Report - 2007/12/14 02:32 Date: Thursday, 12-13-2007
Time: 6AM
Break: Beachbreak.
Swell Direction: NW
Period: Long
Size: Ankle Biters
Surface: Glassy
Rating (10=best): 0 - Didn't surf.
Description:
Ants farting in a bathtub would make bigger waves. Pretty sunrise, though.

Forecast to pick up slightly tomorrow. Tide won't be as deep as early, so I might actually surf once more before I die of old age waiting for waves.

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