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Paddling "into" waves... - 2007/07/05 05:56 Okay, some seasoned hawaian surfer dude told me i need to learn how to "paddle into waves." I asked him what he meant, and to please explain but he failed to elaborate.

This has stuck in my head and has been bothering me a hell of a lot. What does he MEAN, how do I do this? Could someone please expalin in deatail? The one and only actual lesson I had, which sucked btw, they said when I see a wave coming, to position my self straight towards shore, and to start paddling. The research Ive done pretty much says the same, except when droping in, which im told your supposed to do at a 45 degree angle from the waves peak, which im working on, but have yet to master. Could anyone tell me how to "paddle into a wave" correctly like the dude said?

I believe he was referring to when im catching a wave rather than paddling out...just fyi....

Thanx guys, your advice always helps me immensely!
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Go girl - 2007/07/05 11:01 Could mean any number of things. Beginners typically start paddling too soon or too late. You have to time it just right .. too soon and the wave runs you over … too late and either you don’t have enough speed to catch it or its too critical and you get sucked over the falls. Watch good surfers paddle out to meet the peak then spin around and start stroking hard for it. Also they tend to lie too far back afraid they will pearl this is not the case once you break through you can push your body back before you pop up.

First make sure you are in the correct spot in the line up. I like to let the wave come to poppa then stroke hard and quickly to save energy. Different waves and different conditions force different takeoffs. If it is a steep and critical take off, angle the same direction the waves is breaking, enjoy the free fall then from the mid section of the wave pump the board up and down to create speed. On a big wave drop straight down the face with only a small angle and wait until you hit the trough for a smooth bottom turn. Pop up in a one “hop” motion, no knees please. Once you get this down use the pop up to generate thrust for your turn.

Try top turns on small waves by fading into the break then snap pivot using shoulder rotation and start walking on the inside rail as the board comes around and up ... you will be in a perfect high line spot to duck a cover up, walk the nose or step back and run down the face for a big bottom turn.

For bottom turns on bigger waves let the board run down and out, then like skiing use "up" "down" motion to set or release the rail combined with shoulder and arms out rotation ... watch a Mark Richards (the wounded seagull) video.

Trick number three ... to set up a backhand off the lip on a longboard pick the right section not too flat or too steep then run out on the shoulder holding your speed then drop down to gain even more then turn GENTLY from the bottom
as you come up drop down in a crouch then as you hit the lip rise up and use all your power and speed to snap the turn then stall and release to set up the wall. (Most guys try to come off the bottom too hard then lose all their speed and stall on the top.)
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Re:Go girl - 2007/07/06 05:28 Awesome, this is the detailed info I was lookin for! For sure my timing and patience is something Im working onn, yyou know, not going for every single wave, waiting for that perfvect one that I KNOW im gonna get. Its hard sometimes, but seems to work for me everytime, patience that is.

Okay im gonna take steps one and two and ssee how much of it I can absorb and digest for todays session, then im gonna work on the rest. Good info,, thanks dude I appreciate it!
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Re:Go girl - 2007/07/06 05:33 Just FYI, I had a bad habbit of draggin my bafoot or using the knee waa while back, but I thankfully broke myself of that habbit a while ago,and get up lickety-split, haha. I like the tip about using the pop to generate thrust....I never really thought about that, but sounds like something im gonna hhave to try today...
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Re:Go girl - 2007/07/06 07:42 Ok well the other guy gave you some great advice. I will tell ytou the one thing that always helps people when I see them trying to paddle into a wave.

Alot of beginners will paddle for the wave and try to stand up to soon. The result is that your weight gets shifted back and you don't make the wave. Often times this is just a fear of commiting because you think you will pearl. So here's the key!

The arch in your back is your key. the higher you can arch your back, The further you can position your body up towards the nose which will make you paddle faster, because you will plane easier.

I like to compare it to the Keel of a boat. the keel of the boat is what trims the boat to make it go faster. Your arch is your keel.

Also if you are one of those people that don't quite make it in the wave because you aren't commiting, remember that as soon as you pop to your feet you will have control and be able to keep the nose up. So next time you are commiting to that wave you might have to lean forward to keep that weight up, and as soon as you feel that the wave is moving you (and not your paddling), arch that back to prop that nose up and immediately snap to your feet. Experiment using your arch even when paddling around and you will see how much faster you can paddle. Hope this helps.
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Re:Go girl - 2007/07/06 11:29 I can tell I am getting tired when I start banging up my big toe on my trailing foot ... one of the reasons apart from superior grip and "somewhat" Stingray protection (got hit twice last summer ... they do stop full penetration) I wear booties year round! Some times on slow waves it is necessary, after you pop up to have to quickly walk up the nose to push through a stall then back peddle fast. (If you have someone with a camera you can get a quick cheater hang ten pix this way.) Speed and thrust are generated by up and down body motion translated into up and down wave (board) motion caused by rail to rail pumping just above the center line of the wave face. Remember the high lineis the fast lane! Story goes Mickey Dora had Sandra Dee practice poping up on a single bed for the movie Gidget so much so she broke the bed! LOL
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