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Re:THE TRUTH - 2009/12/03 02:13 chriz wrote:
this discussions seems funny to me!!!one dude said, that the older generation (i`m 38, with 2 kids, one of them surfing!) is more a problem...that`s definately NOT hte truth!!!i think older surfers know the days of empty lineups, so it makes no difference if the lineup is packed with dudes whatever riding!!! 15 years ago you just had "special people" surfing, now, as its a massphonemenon a lot of people in the lineup don`t know what it`s really about and hazzle others...so you little wankers, remember that we surfed when you were still wearing diapers, no matter what kind of board, so give us a little bit respect, surfing is just what it is, because WE (the older dudes) did it the last 30 years!!! if you give respect, you earn respect, nothing to do with the kind of board. problems are mostly caused by young shortboarders!!!

so true!!!!! so many groms these days arent respecting the old dudes out there kickin it on their boards!!! i may only be 16 but my grandma put me on my first board when i was 3 years old....i learned so much from her and i find it ridiculous when groms dont show their elders the respect they deserve! seriously take a page from their books and just chill...liquid peace dudes....learn from them cause they were around back in the day when it was all about the wave and not about your sponsers or how new your board is, respect the wave respect the ocean respect yourself respect all the other bros out there on their boards. just kick it and chill. the intimidation and locals shit is ridiculous.
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Re:THE TRUTH - 2009/12/03 03:39 Riding the Waves is about what floats your boat. Whatever works for you. Rode some swells with Dolphins the other day at the pier. Had a blast! Back in the day we enjoyed being on the same wave with each other. If we thought we were in some ones way we just pulled out and let em by. No one owns the Ocean. There is always another wave. Don't be agro and have respect.
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Re:THE TRUTH - 2009/12/09 04:48 i`m into these ass kickin`things for 25 years now. surfing goes through the same thing that e.g. snowboarding went through 15 years ago...a massphenomenon, the spirit is wiped away...so bro`s don`t let it come as far as it is with snowboarding...we`re all one family!
there`s always a second and third wave...and: is a wave worth getting aggro??? i think NO!! is the style of a board worth getting hazzled? i think NO!!liquid peace for all of you!! fuck all you localism and hazzling guys...you`re not dudesome!!!
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Re:THE TRUTH - 2009/12/09 04:50 ...and hey dancinginthewaves...you`re only 16 but you have the wisdom of an old dude...RESPECT TO YOU!!!
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Re:THE TRUTH - 2009/12/16 05:49 thanks my grandma always told me i was an old soul in a young body keep it real and mahalo brother
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Re:THE TRUTH - 2010/01/13 03:50 Hey 1st post here.
This thread is kind of like being on the water HAHA! You can tell who will be cool.
I grew up surfing Venice beach (LA) back in 1973. I was 13 years old. Some of the locals there just looked like they had hate in there eyes back then. I was learning away from the break to the north on a shortboard. When I started standing and going down the line, I then moved closer to the break. I caught leftover shoulders or corners on the inside. I was there so much that the locals had no choice but to see me. In time they see you doing better and you start to get the "Head nod" and even start to here "whats up" Then I slowly worked my way to the line up. I didn't ever really get to know them but I always knew my place. I surfed for about 8 years in So-cal. I moved away and now have made my way back to the wave, over 25 years later (nor-cal).
Now at age 46 I'm back. Still on the shortboard HA! I am pretty much a loaner and paddle out to the groups by myself.
I don't really know anyone. But I see things for the most part are about the same just more people. I find my place in the water. I do look for beach breaks mostly and or points with a peak break, because people are spread out more. On point breaks (one direction) everyone is fighting for the same line inside and out. We all find our place out there I guess. Some will push into place but that's life. I don't mind anyone out there to enjoy life. That's all it is "to enjoy life" Some just think life is just about them. That's life too, sad but true.
You can paddle out at a place one day and have a blast then you go again to the same place and "That guy" is there the next time. I have never been "that guy".
So we can talk the talk all we want if "that guy" or "those guys" are there it may not be that fun. They play the way they want. If you chose to go out then it's kind of like asking for it. You may have the right to be there but so do they. You can't push your way of life on someone that is free to do as they wish.
The best thing to do is.
Be Cool.
"The Truth" is..... we all can't be. It would be nice though.
Im with chriz, There is always another wave coming

So HEY! WHAT'S UP!
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