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8 years ago
6 years ago
6 years ago

My Surf Profile

Shortboard / Thruster, Longboard, Towin Board, Fish, Big Wave Gun, Bodyboard, Skimboard, Single / Retro
Experienced (10-19 yrs)
Only when I'm on vacation
I generally find myself cutting back at salt creek in dana point. But seeing how my bro's live in Huntington I spend a bit of time up there now.
The bone yard in dana point will always be my home...
Tripple Overhead
Right Reef, Left Pointbreak, I love them all
Drop knee
Long ago, around Thanksgiving I was about 11 at the time, Salt Creek was going off... At that time I rode a '70's style fish, with only twin fins and it must have been 4inches thick. My mom picked me up from school early so I could go ride. I got to the beach and almost cried, it was friggin' HUGE!!! especially since I road a 5'2" board and it was still taller than me. I said screw it, mom set up her beach chair and I jumped into the enormous beach break. Paddling my head off I soon found that I couldn't make it through the huge white wash. So I started ditching my board and swimming like Hell... Finally I got to the break line, Monster's popped up infront of me like I had pissed-off the Lord of the sea. I pushed my board through the thick swell and soon found myself WAY!!! OFF SHORE... When I got there I didn't get any negative attitude from the guys already sitting in the line up. Oh no. They were concerened and wondered how the hell I had gotten out there, and what I thought I was gonna do to get back... An Old timer told me to take it easy for a while, maybe he thought it would settle down, he wanted me to catch my breathe. Wave after wave pushed through a couple time we had to paddle our heads off because the waves started breaking further out. I stuck next to the old guys on the big boards for a time. Eventually the Old timer told me,"these waves are comin' in shallow, not real big, paddle for one of those and when it peaks don't look back." So I paddled for a couple that seemed small enough, they were to small, then I would watch them jack up into one of those monsters I saw coming out. You could practically see the sand at the base of the wave. I was scared. I sat for a little while longer till some more of the medium sized waves came through, I paddled out will the rest of the lineup, the Old timer told me to paddle into this one, so I did. The wave picked me up so quick I wasn't sure if I should stand, I was in a drop knee for a moment till I saw the water boiling infront of me, I immediately jumped to my feet and cut into the face of the wave heading right, my back to the shore I saw this big black monster rising up through my finger tips. It was head high, till I looked down, shooting down the face of this black beast it got taller and taller, I looked behind me quickly as all sound around me went from my ears. A washing machine was chasing me and quickly catching up, I was in a blue tube standing streight up, I angled my board up and then thrust forward, as I shot out of the mouth of the beast I cut left HARD!!! The whole thing was comming down behind me, it knew I had defeated it. Crashing down like thunder, the beast gave me one more blow launching my board from under me towards the shore I went down into the water which I found to be less than a foot or two deep. Getting spit onto the shore in the next break, I got to my feet and ran into the cold sand, so the monsters couldn't have me back, I was all the way down at the point by Whitemans, the ride I had was from Gravels. It was an epic ride, I ran down the beach exhausted, happy, and proud. I got to my mom and asked,"Did you see that?" nope. She asked me where I had been and I told her my story.
Shane Dorian, Pat O'Conell, Robert "Wingnut", Sunny Garcia, and of course Laird Hamilton. There are many greats in my life.
Its been a long time for me. And that sux...

Personnal info

Dana Point
United States of America
Just In (20-24yrs)

Surfed Spots

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Favourite lists

Nb of surf spots: 14

'My Surfed Spots' map

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United States of America

14 surf spots

LA County

Surf Spot GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type Session SS HS WL  
Chart House 164 10 5 0 / 0 23 1
Hermosa Beach Pier 163 12 1 0 / 2 136 3 8
Hermosa Pier Outside 164 12 6 0 / 0 9
Malibu 163 10 3 0 / 7 407 22 31
The Hut - Paradise Cove 164 10 5 0 / 0 11 5
Venice Breakwater 164 12 8 0 / 1 107 5 3
Waterfalls 164 10 5 0 / 0 2
Zeroes 164 12 3 0 / 0 100 5 7
Zuma Beach 163 12 1 0 / 2 206 7 6


Surf Spot GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type Session SS HS WL  
A Frames 164 12 5 0 / 0 4
Birdhits 165 11 3 0 / 0 8 2

Orange County

Surf Spot GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type Session SS HS WL  
Salt Creek : Gravels 164 12 1 0 / 2 143 5 4

San Diego County

Surf Spot GPS Atlas Rate Level Direction Type Session SS HS WL  
Sunset Cliffs - Osprey 164 12 5 0 / 2 130 10 8
Windansea 164 12 5 0 / 4 184 5 7

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