|Find the best surf spots||
|5 years ago|
|4 years ago|
|5 years ago|
|Shortboard / Thruster, Mini-Mal / Hybrid|
|Grommet (1-2 yrs)|
|Stand Up Surfer|
|Occasionally during year|
|No local spots, Im not even from the coast but I think I will be changing that shortly!|
|Will never forget this wave I caught at North Point, in the Margaret River area. I shouldn't even have been out there trying to surf a wave like that but I didn't know better at the time, I got into my first wave out there nice and early did a big backside bottom turn and just pointed down the line, when I looked back there was a barrel chasing me down and when it got to be I was so blown away I didn't know what to do, and just straightened out and rode the whitewash for a few seconds, looked back and thought holy shit did I just catch a wave that big and make it this far, haha, still one of the best waves I ever caught!|
|Three weeks before the above said wave, me and a few friends were surfing for the first time at North Point, I tried catching the first wave in the set but didn't get it, turned around and there was a freakishly large wave coming towards me and I was caught inside, paddled as hard as I could and pushed through, relaxed a little to soon and felt myself getting sucked over the falls upside down, my leg caught on my board and when I hit felt my hip pull really hard, then ended up on the bottom, came up and bam the next one caught me, I made it out of there ok but it could have been a lot worse, not surfing due to the leg sucked!
Oh and one other experience that sucked was almost losing my eye after taking the nose of a surfboard in the eye, luckily it got me just above the eyeball and caught the bone in the corner where nose meets eye socket. I had a pretty good looking black eye for a while and the white of my eye was red with blood, but I got lucky and I can still see!
|Spent some time surfing in Australia in the Northern Beaches of Sydney, NSW. Margaret River are, WA. and Byron Bay, NSW.
Then spent the next year surfing New Zealand, spent most of my time in Raglan, caught some fun waves while heading east in Whakatane, and then Gisborne.
|I'm gonna be arriving in Ecuador in about a month, don't have any plan yet but if you check out my profile and read this, have been there or are going there hit me up. I'm gonna be starting in Ecuador and heading south from there maybe go as far as Pichilemu, Chile. Will be there away for about 6 months is the plan but who knows what could happen!|
|Once a year|
|Up to 6 months|
|No but I might try it...|
|Lack of crowds|
|Just In (20-24yrs)|
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