Gladstones, Topanga, Little Dume, Ventura Co. line, Zeros, Malibu
Favourites Spots:
North Shore, Town, Makaha, Honolua Bay, Maverick's, California St, Little Dume
My Biggest Wave:
6m/20ft and over
Prefered Wave Size:
Double Overhead
Favourite Type of Spot:
Right Pointbreak; Right Reef; Big Wave in Deep Sea
Prefered Tricks:
Drop In
Bodyboard Tricks:
Tube
My Best Ever Session:
Head high day at the gulley all by myself...and Laird H.
Biggest Fear or Wipe out:
dying out in the flats at Mav's and getting sucked in the pit, taking a big set on the head and being dragged through the rocks. I know it's gonna happen. So, I'll just have to deal.
Favourite Surfers:
The 24
My Quiver
All about my boards !
Board 1
Shape:
Stand up board
Fins:
1- Single
Shaper:
Terry Senate
Size x Width x Thickness:
12'8.5" x 27" x 4.75"
Condition:
Well Used
Make and Technology:
Custom job.
Tail:
pintail
Bottom:
Flat; Concave
Type of Fins:
12"
Rails, Specifics:
Hard rails, pulled in nose. Built for speed, great paddler for distance, as well.
Year Made:
2000
Year Bought:
2006
My Opinion About:
This is my favorite. You can sit 100yds. outside the line-up and catch every set wave that comes in. No one can talk shit cause people can't come near you. Have surfed 2ft. Malibu and 30ft. Mavericks. The board has lots of volume...not good in crowds. It has caused lots of bleeding.
Session Memories:
Too many to list.
Board 2
Shape:
Big Wave Gun
Fins:
1- Single
Shaper:
Dick Brewer
Size x Width x Thickness:
10'4"
Condition:
Well Used
Make and Technology:
This is an old template...probably from the late 70's. I found it on SURFPULSE...bought it from Big Wave Dave of Carlsbad, CA. The board has a heavy, heavy glass job on it...doing some research...it has some stories.
Tail:
rounded pin
Bottom:
Vee
Type of Fins:
experimental
Rails, Specifics:
This thing has rails that I have never seen before...it's made to go fast and straight.
Year Made:
'75-'79
Year Bought:
2006
My Opinion About:
It hangs on my wall most of the time...no opinion yet.
Session Memories:
Paddled out at Spooner's Cove on a 15ft+ day and just sat on the shoulder...took me an hour to paddle back in cause of the current.
Board 3
Shape:
Big Wave Gun
Fins:
3- Thrusther
Shaper:
Rod Greenup
Size x Width x Thickness:
8'5.5"x19"x3.75"
Condition:
Brand New
Make and Technology:
Costa Azul 8'6" pin
Tail:
pintail
Bottom:
Vee
Type of Fins:
FCS
Year Bought:
2006
My Opinion About:
This board is perfect for a big day in L.A. Especially when it too big for a longboard. Three or four two-armed strokes and you're in it!
Session Memories:
One day at Ventura County line, guys were stroking their asses off, while I was waving goodbye!
Board 4
Shape:
Longboard
Fins:
1- Single
Size x Width x Thickness:
9'6"
Condition:
Still Sexy
Make and Technology:
Robert August
Tail:
rounded pin
Bottom:
Concave
Type of Fins:
California Classics 9"
Rails, Specifics:
Soft...classic longboard
Year Made:
?
Year Bought:
2001
My Opinion About:
it's a longboard...nothing too sexy
Session Memories:
none worth mentioning
Board 5
Shape:
Egg
Fins:
3- Thrusther
Shaper:
Stewart
Size x Width x Thickness:
7'0"
Condition:
Showing its age
Tail:
rounded pin
Type of Fins:
glassed on
Rails, Specifics:
round, longboard nose
Id Number:
15329
Year Made:
long time ago
My Opinion About:
good for those mushy days at El Porto.
Year Bought:
was given to me
Session Memories:
one day at Huntington with Ryan Cleary and some Cobian team riders. I didn't have a leash and launched it accidentally at these grommies...I'm a kook.